Got to Sao Paulo, “the New York City of Brazil”. As predicted by some Brasilia friends,
I don’t think it’s my favorite place in Brazil but it's probably a more exciting place to live than Brasilia. I did meet a lot of nice
people and had a great day walking around the city with Tales, who Henrique
connected me with. However, I would not recommend going out of your way to travel to Sao Paulo if you come to Brazil (a sentiment that was echoed by people who grew up here).
Flying into the city at sunrise |
Tuesday was
action-packed- my flight left Brasilia at 5 AM and so I got to Sao Paulo just
in time to experience its infamous morning rush hour (the city is notorious for
having some of the worst traffic jams in the world). After an adventure trying to hunt down coffee and an even
more annoying adventure of trying to get my internet to work in the hotel
lobby, Tales rescued me from my frustration at 10 AM. He’s Sao Paulo born and bred but he spent a year in Ireland
(and subsequently did some extensive travels around Europe) and he was a great
tour guide. We share a lot of
interests- music, love of traveling, appreciation of Asian culture (he’s into
Buddhism), he’s a vegetarian so we had plenty to talk about in the almost 12
hours we spent together. His goal
with the day was to show me the “real Sao Paulo”, the grungier, crowded chaotic
side because he said the pretty parts of the city where just like any other.
We started by walking the Avenida Paulista, the “Wall
Street” of Sao Paulo and saw one of the famous art museums (but didn’t go
inside because it’s mostly European art that you can see anywhere). We went to the city center, saw the
city cathedral (much more traditional-looking architecture than in Brasilia),
the “zero-point” of the city and enjoyed being submerged in a sea of people
with street musicians, living statues as well as a significant amount of
homeless people. The ethnic
diversity of Brazilians was especially dramatic in Sao Paulo- you see Brazilian
Japanese, Black-Japanese, Indigenous Brazilians, aesthetic Jews, German
descendents (at the couch surfing meeting, we talked to a Brazilian from the
South which is the German part- pale with strawberry-blonde hair)… there’s
definitely no one consistent image of what a Brazilian looks like. Not too many natural blondes though- people still stare at me. You probably have an idea of that if
you’ve been seeing pictures of the people I’ve been meeting during this
trip. We went to the municipal
theater, Japan-town, this crazy shopping street famous for selling costumes and
cheap imported stuff…
My favorite spot was definitely the municipal market- a huge
building of various food shops and restaurants (kind of reminded me of Faneuil
Hall). We sampled exotic fruits-
passion fruit, dragon fruit (the mysterious looking one from the Farmer’s
market), this delicious fruit that looked like a potato, the fruit from cashew
trees and more fruit you can’t find in the US.
Tales sampling exotic fruits at the Marketplace |
For lunch, we ate at a restaurant that Anthony Bourdain
featured on No Reservations for giant boloney sandwiches. We split pastel, which is a fried
pastry that could be filled with anything but we had palmello stuffing. This was another must-eat dish in Sao
Paulo (where they get as big as pillows!) but apparently it is Chinese in
origin.
We met some Czech people and convinced them to join us for a
360-degree view of the city from the top of an Italian circle building. Tales was right- Sao Paulo is filled
with buildings as far as the eye can see.
View of the city from the top of the tall building |
Tales and I at the soccer stadium- Museo do Futebol is below us |
After that, we rested in the grass at a classy park briefly
but decided to stop at my hotel to check the address for the weekly CS
meeting. Then we went to the CS
meeting, which was awesome- I really wish these happened in Raleigh. The basement of a bar was reserved and
everyone had a nametag for “Established Paulista member”, “Newbie” or “Gringo/gringa”. I met a ton of amazing people- some
people from Brazil- including a film major who suggested I see City of God,
Eliot Squed, Neighborhood Sounds and Colleagues (so if you are into foreign
films, you can check that out too!).
I spoke to people from Spain, Russia, Ukraine and a Pilipino guy who lives in Singapore when he’s not traveling
around South America (we exchanged contact information for when I’m going to be
there this summer). One of my favorite conversations was about people's favorite American words. The girl from Southern Brazil loved the words "passionfruit" and "ladybug" and thought they were incredibly poetic. The film critic's favorite word for "eggplant", for a reason he couldn't describe. How random! It was amazing
to speak with world-travellers from such diverse backgrounds and I wanted to
stay there forever but I was also exhausted and my legs were about ready to
fall off. So we left there around
ten and Tales brought me back to my hotel.
I’ll be traveling to University of Sao Paulo shortly to meet
with faculty (I guess) before my colloquium. It’s the best University in all of South America so
hopefully I stay awake for my talk.
I found a couple guys to show me a few last sights, eat dinner with and
take me to the airport tonight so that’s a relief. Tchau! Wish me luck!
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